DX,STD (DPFI) -> Si,HX (MPFI) wiring PARTS/TOOLS NEEDED Prices may vary depending on where you go) -SiECU(PM6for manual transmission)-----$75-$120 - Si Distributor--------------------------------$50-$120 - MPFI intake manifold - including throttle body, fuel rail, injectors----$70-$90 - Resistor Box(88-91 Si)------$20-$40 - Si wiring harness(needed for injector plugs, injector resistor box plug, and distributor plug)-----$0-$10 - Intake manifold gasket- (not needed but recommended)-----$15-$20 - Manifold Support Bracket ------$0-$10 - Si fuel line from filter to fuel rail-----$0-$5 - some extra wire ------$3-$7 - electrical tape or heat shrink(better)------$1-$10 - wire stripper/cutter------$5-$15 - soldering gun and solder(not needed but highly recommended)------$10-$18
Parts could cost anywhere between $230-$405 depending on what kinds of deals you can find and where you get them from, it may also be cheaper if you buy everything from one person all at once
It is much easier to use your existing DPFI harness and just add the extra 4 wires that will be needed. The Si harness will be much harder to use.
There are two major wiring changes that you'll have to do going from a DPFI system to an MPFI and a couple other minor things that need to be done too. The first one is the crank angle sensor wiring which is the easy part. The second one is the fuel injector wiring which is slightly more complicated. Also, you'll have to switch the two wires on the TPS because the TPS on the new intake works in the opposite direction. If you dont switch them, the ECU will think that the engine is at Wide open throttle when its actually at idle. I highly recommend soldering and heat shrinking any electrical connections you will be making because it is very possible for connectors to come loose from all the vibration and solder will hold up better in the long run. Also, the TPS and EACV plugs are too short and they'll have to be extended. You're also going to have to switch the manifold support bracket, since the bolt parrern from the support to manifold is different from DX to SI, although they still bolt up on the block the same. TO HOOK UP THE MULTI-POINT CRANK ANGLE SENSOR: - First, you'll have to go to the passengers foot well to where the ecu is located. - Pin B10 and B12 should both be empty. - You'll have to cut and move the wire that goes to pin C1(orange) over to pin B10, and move the wire from pinC2(white) over to pin B12. Don't get these two mixed up or else the ignition timing will be severly retarded. Leave enough wire at the ECU side of pin C1 and C2 for next step. - Now run wires from pins C1 and C2 into the engine compartment and label them. - There will be a connector on the new Si distributor with two unused pins. One of the wires will be blue/green stripe, and the other will be blue/yellow stripe. - The wire that is blue/green stripe will go to the wire from pin C1 on the ECU and the other wire that is blue/yellow stripe will go to the wire from pin C2.
SWITCHING THE WIRES AT THE TPS: This pretty much explains itself, just switch the two outside wires(green/white and yellow/white) around at the TPS and then you're done this step. I used the TPS connector off the Si harness, just so that I could just match up all the wires, since the wires are already reversed on it.
INJECTOR WIRING (In the car): First of all, while you're still in the passengers foot well, cut wires A3(yellow) and A7(red), although leave some wire on the ECU side for later use. Now run wires from pins A3 and A7 into the engine compartment and label them.
(Engine Compartment): - Mount the injector resistor box up on the drivers side shock tower. - Connect the yellow/black wires from the two DPFI injector harnesses and run it to the yellow/black wire on the injector resistor box. - Connect the yellow wire from the DX injector to the #1 injector (brown wire). - Connect the red wire from the DX injector and run it to the #3 injector (blue wire). - Connect the wire you labelled A3 to the #2 injector (red wire). - Connect the wire labelled A7 to the #4 injector (yellow wire). - Then, connect the 4 red/black wires coming from injector resistor box to each of the four injectors. Completed Wiring Diagram Distributor wiring completed
You should have three extra plugs left over after you are done the swap. two of them are the old DPFI injector plugs, and the other one is for the tandem valve for the DPFI system, which you do not use on the MPFI system, you can either just cut it off, or tuck it away somewhere.
OBD1 ECU PINOUT The # go up and down from left to right.(see)
Another thing make sure you have extra pin inputs since you will cutting the wire and not taking the complete wire out of its socket.
Firstoff, it generally helps to remove the hood from its support brackets. Pop the lifters and remove the four bolts.
Removeall of the associated pipework from the radiator (the system should be drained first) and remove the electrical connectors to the cylinder head and/or the wiring which will get in the way. Label the wires so you don't get mixed up when refitting everything.
Thecylinder head is a heavy piece of equipment, so sometimes it is easier to remove the intake manifold. Be careful that coolant will still be in the cylinder head and the manifold.
Instructions
1. Unplug all wires and hoses connected to the cylinder head and remove the head cover. You may need to remove the A/C fan to be able to clear it of the studs on the engine block.
2. Set the motor to "top dead center," or TDC. Remove the #1 cylinder's spark plug as well as the valve cover so you can observe the springs. Insert a screwdriver into the open spark plug hole, and rotate the motor by hand, counter-clockwise. When the #1 cylinder is on its intake stroke, watch the screwdriver. Turn the motor very slowly until the screwdriver reaches its highest point. Remove the screwdriver. Slide off the timing belt, and be sure you do not rotate the motor any further.
3. Remove the head bolts in order, and double check that no coolant lines are still connected. Lift the cylinder head out. It will be very heavy--this is where you'll likely need the help of another person. Remove the old head gasket.
4. Drain the oil from the cylinder head. Clean the pistons, valves, head bolt holes and all other parts with degreaser and a toothbrush. Wipe down with a paper towel when finished. Some people even run the same size taps in head-bolt holes to insure proper cleaning.
The biggest benefit to dealing with dis-assembly, lapping and reassembly one valve at a time is that you cannot accidentally install a valve in the wrong combustion chamber. In other words, each valve is lapped and installed in the same exact section of the head where it was originally installed. This is extremely important because no machining is being done to the heads to true things back up. Basically moving parts get where patterns over time and each valve and valve guide will where together as a matched set. Installing a valve from one chamber in to another chamber will result in unmatched where patterns and typically shorten the over all life of valve train and this is why it is so important to reinstall the valve in its original location.
Tools
New valve stem seals
Valve lapping compound (course/fine)
Valve spring compressor
Magnet
Suction cup
Napkins
Step 1 With the Head off the car you first need to remove the valves. Do this only one at a time as its best for the valve to go back in its original location. Take your valve spring compressor and place it as far at the bottom of the spring as possible and compress the spring. Then you need to take a magnet and remove the keepers. There's 2 on each valve you do. Step 2
Once the keepers are out put them somewhere you wont loose them! now you can lift the valve spring up and uncompress the spring. On the top of the spring is the retainer.
Now all you should see left is the valve stem seal. you need to get a gripping pliers and pull out the seal. You have to pull somewhat hard to get them out. once its out throw the old one away. If you see oil once the seal is off clean it up.
Step 3
You're now ready to get the valve lapping compound. You need to start with the coarse grit first. Put a little on your finger and go all the way around the valve as shown in the pic.
Step 4
Take the valve with the lapping compound on it and put it back in the head. Now take a small suction cup and put it on the valve and turn it side to side. this is lapping the valve. You will hear a grinding noise at first which means its working! Keep doing this until the noise quiets down. Then take out the valve and clean the lapping compound off it and also in the head. Then take your fine lapping compound and do the same thing with it until its quiet. Clean off the valve and inside the heads again.
Step 5
When your all done lapping and everything's clean put the valve back in and set the head down flat. The valve stem seals you got should have came with a small piece of straw. Put this on the top of the valve stem as shown
Step 6
Take the valve stem seal and push it down until it looks Flush on the cylinder head valve port. The seal wont go down all the way. This is normal. When you put your springs back on it will push the seal down automatically so dont even worry about it.
With the seal pushed down take the straw out. then take your valve spring and place the retainer on the top of it.
Step 7
Now compress the spring and place it on the valve stem seal. Get the 2 keepers and put them back in. You may want to get some white grease to put on the inside of the keepers to help them stick on. If your having trouble getting the keepers in place try compressing the spring more.
Once everything's in place take the spring compressor and lift it up until the retainer moves up to where the keepers are. Then uncompress the spring as shown.
Step 8
Your all done with this valve!!!! Repeat the same steps for the rest of the valves. Try to spend more time on the exhaust valves when your lapping because they need it more than the intake valves usually do.
After Lapping
1. With the guides straight, round, and snug,,,, in other words in good condition, not lose and worn out.
2. After you have accurately dressed your stone and ground the valves.
3. After you have done a careful valve job.
4. With the head upside down and the seats facing up, barely insert the valve in the guide.
5. With the valve held about 1.5 inches above the seat, drop the valve and it should bounce 2 or 3 times and ring like a church bell. That seat is concentric to the guide centerline.
6. If you drop the valve and it goes "thunk" and stays on the seat, then one side or the other is wedging against the seat. If your lightly raise the valve off the seat with your fingertip, from the stem end, you can feel some light resistance, that's further proof that you need to recut the seats.
Technical Engines work best when the right things happen at the right time. For instance, when ignition spark happens too late, you might embarrass yourself on the dyno; when it happens too soon, you might end up with a scenic view of the inner workings of your block. The relationship between an engine's cams and its crank is no different. The rise and fall of the pistons has to synch up with the opening and closing of the valves. This is even more important to pay attention to once aftermarket cams, adjustable cam gears or other mismatched components, each with their own tolerances, are factored in, as well as once an engine's deck or cylinder head have been resurfaced. Even the slightest tolerance change or amount of material removed will alter the distance between the cams and the crank, which, in turn, will alter their relationship with one another and disturb cam timing. All of this makes it even more important to properly degree your cams.
Cam degreeing-or "zeroing in" cam timing-is the only way to ensure that your cams are performing optimally and that your piston-to-valve clearances are what you think they are. It's also the only way to ensure that your valves open up all the way at precisely the right time. It's a process that should be performed whenever cams are swapped or an engine's been rebuilt-before visiting the dyno. You'll need adjustable cam gears to do it, as well as a degree wheel, a dial indicator, and some basic hand tools.
But don't assume that cam degreeing has anything to do with dialing in your adjustable cam gears to some predetermined setting. Your cam gear manufacturer has no idea how much your block's been surfaced, how many times your head's been milled, or who manufactured your cams. Neither does the kid on the internet whose, incidentally, got "the same setup" and assures you that a couple of degrees of advance on your intake cam is exactly what you need. To be sure, cam degreeing is more than simply the twist of a couple of adjustable cam gears based off of where the cam gear manufacturer says "zero" is. Degreeing cams ensures that the cams are in their correct position-for your engine-nobody else's. The guesswork's eliminated.
Before degreeing cams, though, you've got to understand some cam fundamentals to help better see why all of this needs to be done. A good grasp on the four-stroke process won't hurt either.
THE FOUR-STROKE PROCESS— The four-stroke cycle gets its name from its four piston stages: intake, compression, power, and exhaust. For every 720 degrees that the crank spins, each of the engine's pistons travels up and down twice. Meanwhile, the valves, carefully controlled by the cams, introduce air and fuel into the cylinders and let exhaust gases out. In the real world, the precise beginning and end of each cycle is pretty foggy because of cam profiles and all sorts of complicated physical and chemical constraints. Instead of 180-degree increments, an engine's valves typically remain open far longer in order to introduce enough air and release enough gas. Proper valve timing is critical to how well the four-stroke process works, and proper valve timing begins with cam degreeing.
CAMSHAFT DEFINITIONS When discussing camshafts, enthusiasts often get confused with the terminology used to describe the various parts of the camshaft. This diagram and these definitions should help most people better understand camshafts and their related terminology.
Ramp The textbook definition of ramp is the section of the cam from the base circle to where the valve physically begins to open, or finishes closing. It is also commonly referred to as a clearance ramp; or in other words, the part of the cam lobe where the camshaft will close up the initial tappet clearance (lash) and the tappet/follower will make initial contact (on the opening side) or end its contact with the camshaft (on the closing side). Skunk2 defines ramp as the portion of the profile from the base circle to the point of maximum valve acceleration. Skunk2's Fast Ramp Technology helps the valve go from zero to maximum acceleration as quickly as possible and still maintain superior valvetrain stability.
Flank This is defined as the end of the ramp section to the point where the valve reaches maximum velocity. We frequently hear people talk about "aggressive ramps" when they are actually trying to describe the flank and how quickly the valve is opening. It is important to find the balance between opening the valve too quickly and not opening the valve quick enough. If the valve is not opened quick enough, "area under the lift curve," the airflow is not optimized. If the valve is opened too quickly the camshaft may run off the tappet, and it will become difficult to slow the valve down enough as it goes over the nose.
Nose Nose is defined as the section between the maximum velocity on the opening side and maximum velocity on the closed side, or rather the section of the cam where the valve spring forces are keeping the valvetrain from separating from the cam surface. Controlling valve accelerations over the nose is critical to preventing valve float and high-rpm valvetrain stability. Skunk2 Amax Technology allows the company to design the flank and nose section of the cam to maximize area under the curve and still maintain valvetrain stability.
Tool You Will Need
Dial indicators
degree wheel
sockets
1Visually set the Number One piston to TDC (top dead center), remove the crank pulley, and fasten the degree wheel to the crank with its TDC mark pointing up. The process is easiest with the engine on a stand but can also be done with it under the hood.
2Cut off a six-inch piece of welding rod or a metal coat hanger, bend it into a "J" shape, and sharpen its long end to a point. Slide a bolt through its "J" and fasten it to the engine, somewhere below its cam gears, allowing the rod's sharpened end to point toward the degree wheel's TDC mark. Position the rod close to the wheel, without touching.
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3When degreeing cams, never rely on the engine's pulley, block, or timing belt/chain cover markings to locate TDC. Variables like block height and piston dwell often make such methods inaccurate. Instead, use the piston-stop method to determine precisely when the piston's reached its absolute highest point and the middle of its dwell. Rotate the crank so its Number One piston is near the bottom of its bore and thread a piston-stop into its spark plug hole. You can fabricate your own piston-stop out of a spark plug or anything that threads into the spark plug hole and hits the piston just before TDC. Next, rotate the crank in its normal direction of rotation-counterclockwise for most older four-cylinder Honda engines, clockwise for most newer ones-until the piston contacts the piston stop, and note the wheel's degree value corresponding with the pointer. Rotate the engine the opposite direction until the piston contacts the piston-stop again and record that value. TDC is located exactly halfway between those two values.
4Without moving the crank or degree wheel, reposition the pointer to line up with the degree wheel's halfway point you just recorded. Now, remove the piston-stop and rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation, this time aligning its TDC mark with the pointer. Be sure it's dead-on, and don't disturb it. You've now accurately located TDC and, chances are, it's not where your timing cover and crank pulley said it should be. 5Position your dial indicator's tip on one of the Number One piston's intake valve retainers. Don't position its tip on the rocker arm as the rocker ratio will distort the results. For an accurate reading, be sure that the dial indicator's needle is parallel to the valve. You may need to fabricate some sort of base that bolts the dial indicator to the cylinder head to position it appropriately. Close the valve lash all the way, and ensure that the valve is closed completely by checking that the rocker pad is positioned on the camshaft's base circle, not its lobe. 6Rotate the crank in its normal operating direction. Observe the dial indicator's reading as its respective valve opens. Keep rotating the crank until the pointer lines up with your cam's specified peak lift degree value, also known as its intake or exhaust center line, depending on which cam or lobe it's referring to. This information can be found in some service manuals for OEM cams and from the manufacturer for aftermarket ones. If you overshoot your mark while rotating the crank, continue for another full rotation until everything lines up. Never rotate the engine in the opposite direction since a tensioner will only align its cams and crank appropriately when spinning forward.
7With the degree wheel positioned at your cam's peak lift degree value, loosen your adjustable cam gear bolts and rock the cam back and forth until the dial indicator shows its valve is at full lift. You'll know it's at full lift when the gauge displays its numerically smallest reading. Ensure that the crank hasn't moved, tighten the adjustable cam gear bolts, and rotate the engine two complete revolutions, this time monitoring when the dial indicator once again displays peak lift. Observe the degree wheel to ensure that it's once again at your cam's advertised center line. If it isn't, start over.
8Repeat the process for the opposing exhaust cam lobe, using the appropriate exhaust peak lift specifications.
9If you made any sort of adjustments, you'll want to re-mark your adjustable cam gears to reflect their new "zero" reference points. For example, if you retarded your intake camshaft one degree to coincide with its peak lift, then "minus one" degree is your new "zero."
